FANCY CUT DIAMONDS
ANY GEMSTONE SHAPE OTHER THAN ROUND
Any diamond cut beyond a Round Brilliant Cut is regarded as a Fancy Cut, also referred to as a Fancy Shaped Diamond. They are a category of shapes like Cushions, Ovals, and Pears. There is no Cut Grade issued for a Fancy Cut Diamond. Think of grading Fancy Cut Diamonds as greater than the sum of its parts. The overall look of a Fancy Shape is more important than the definitive details vital to a Round Brilliant Cut Diamond. Factors used to evaluate Round Brilliant Cuts are precise, down to the tenths place.
Teminology
Parts of the Whole
When referring to Fancy Cut Diamonds, refer to its Parts. The Head is located at the top of an Oval and Pear Shape. The Shoulder comes off the Head and onto the Belly, which is located on the side where it curves out to the fullest. Wings can be found on Marquise, Heart, and Pear Shapes. They taper off the Belly and onto the Point, or Tip. The Cleft is the inset cut of a Fancy Shape Diamond.
THREE
CUT CATEGORIES
The Three main diamond cutting styles are Brilliant Cuts, Step Cuts, and Mixed Cuts.
BRILLIANT CUT: A Cut comprised of pointed Triangular and Kite-Shaped (Bezel) Facets like that of a Round Brilliant Cut Diamond. These Cuts show the most Sparkle and Fire.
STEP CUT: Facets are long, narrow, four-sided Square and Rectangular Shape. These Facets run Parallel to the Girdle on both the Crown and Pavilion. Step Cut Diamonds gather and distribute light evenly because their facets are linear as opposed to pointed.
MIXED CUT: Mixing Brilliant Cut and Step Cut Facets provide a variety of Cuts in the market. Cutters can modify their Diamond Shape to accept more light. Manufacturers can create Patented Diamond Cuts to sell. Any of these cutting styles can be used with a variety of different Shapes.
CUSHION BRILLIANT CUT
PREFERRED CUT RATIO (1.0-1.15:1)
The Cushion Brilliant Cut is a time-honored Cut. It takes its Shape from the Old Mine Cut. Because of this, the classic style Cushion Cut was known as the Antique Cushion Cut. It is typically Square or Rectangular in Shape, with Rounded Corners. Designers like this particlar Shape for its historical look with a modern day twist. If considering a Cushion Cut, be concerned with Pavilion bulge, misshapen Corners, and extremely thick Girdles.
OVAL BRILLIANT CUT
PREFERRED CUT RATIO (1.3-1.5:1)
The Oval Brilliant Cut Diamond is similar to a Round Brilliant Cut Diamond with an elliptical outline. This makes it a good choice for customers who like the traditional Round. Oval Diamonds also look larger face up than Round Diamonds of the same carat weight. If cut well, an Oval Brilliant Cut Diamond will pool light in a large portion of the gemstone. Be cautious of the Bow Tie Effect and shallow Depth Percentages. Also stay away from bulging or flat Shoulders.
PEAR BRILLIANT CUT
PREFERRED CUT RATIO (1.5-1.75:1)
The Pear Brilliant Cut Diamond is a tear drop shape. The facet arrangement of the Pear Brilliant Cut is modified off the Round Brilliant Cut. It can be worn tear drop style, or reverse for an edgy look. Pear Cuts are very versatile for jewelry pieces and designers alike. Pear Cuts can be dazzling. Pay attention to any detrimental inclusions around the tip of the Pear. The Bowtie Effect is something to watch for in this cut.
RADIANT MIXED CUT
PREFERRED CUT RATIO (1.0-1.3:1)
The Radiant Mixed Cut was created and patented by Henry Grossbard. It is a Square or Rectangular Mixed Cut with beveled corners. If you placed a Princess Brilliant Cut Diamond within an Emerald Step Cut, and left only the outside step cut facets visible, you would have a Radiant Cut. Radiant Mixed Cuts are usually cut very well. A well cut Radiant Diamond will pool light throughtout the entire stone.
PRINCESS BRILLIANT CUT
PREFERRED CUT RATIO (1:1)
The Princess Brilliant Cut is a Square Shape. Princess Cuts are a great choice for modern settings. Their sharp corners, angular shape, and timeless brilliance have made them a popular alternative to Round Diamonds. A Princess Brilliant Cut Diamond is best set in a ring that protects its fine corners. It is best to stay away from very thin Girdles when selecting this Shape. Choose a gemstone with good Symmetry.
HEART BRILLIANT CUT
PREFERRED CUT RATIO (1.0-1.2:1)
The Heart Brilliant Cut is, face up, a heart-shaped outline. The Table is a shield. Heart Shapes reflect the romantic sentiments of the people who wear them. They make unique, beautiful engagement rings and gorgeous solitaire pendants. Watch out for the Bowtie Effect and Pavilion bulge when looking to acquire one. Your allowed to be lenient with this Cut. After all, no two hearts are alike.
Marquise Brilliant Cut
PREFERRED CUT RATIO (1.75-2:1)
The Marquise Brilliant Cut is an elongated, cat's eye Brilliant Cut. It is an elliptical Shape with curved sides and pointed ends. The Marquise Cut gained popularity in the 1970s and 80s, especially in bridal jewelry. This Cut does a great job at complementing a finger with its narrow, elongated shape. Stay clear of Marquise Diamonds with Dark Bowties and harmful inclusions in the tips.
EMERALD STEP CUT
PREFERRED CUT RATIO (1.35-1.55:1)
The Emerald Step Cut is a Rectangular Cut with beveled corners. If the Emerald Cut is square, the shape is called a Square Emerald Cut. A well cut Emerald Shape maintains extraordinary brilliance and symmetry. Emerald Shapes show inclusions easily, so it is best to choose a diamond in the higher clarity range. They are known for their transparency. Pay special attention to Crown and Pavilion Angles.
ASSCHER STEP CUT
PREFERRED CUT RATIO (1:1)
The Asscher Step Cut was created by Joseph Asscher. Hence the name, Asscher Cut. Asscher Shaped Diamonds show the finest Symmetry. Like the Emerald Shape, it is best to choose a diamond in the higher clarity range. Light opens up an Asscher Step Cut Diamond and creates a mesmerizing kaleidoscope. Symmetry is also a must to look for. The Cut is clean and contemporary. Facets should align accordingly.
The
Bowtie Effect
The Bowtie Effect can be noticed when viewing the diamond face up. As seen in the diagram, light leakage can occur in the gray areas of these four Brilliant Cut Shapes. This is known as Extinction.
This extinction creates a black Bowtie appearance in a Brilliant Cut Diamond. This is especially common in shallow or very deep gemstones. The cutter can eliminate the Bowtie by creating a slightly deeper Pavilion. Faint, light gray Bowties are often seen. It is very hard to eliminate a Bowtie altogether.
AVOID BLACK BOWTIES
Dark Bowties affect the diamonds appearance. There is a fine line for the cutter. A Bowtie is examined face up, under normal lighting. They are generally located at the center of the stone between the Bellies. They range from a light gray to black in tone. A Black Bowtie symbolizes loss of light and a poor cut.
Old Mine Cut Natural Diamond
Discovery of Diamond rough from Brazil mines in the 1700s (Eighteenth Century) was used in the manufacturing of Old Mine Cut Diamonds due to the modernization of instruments.
This cut is similar to a Cushion Cut Diamond. However, the cut contains a high crown, deep pavilion, large culet, and smaller table when compared to a Modern Cushion Brilliant Cut Diamond. “Old-miners” (aka) became the most popular cut diamonds of the eighteenth century.
ABOVE ARE THE EARLY BRILLIANT CUT DIAMONDS
These two cuts led to the Classic Modern Round Brilliant Cut Diamond we have today. Henry Morse, a Diamond Cutter out of Boston in the mid 1800s, created a similar cut to that of the Modern Round Brilliant. However, it was rejected for fear of weight (carat) loss and capital.
By 1919, Marcel Tolkowsky, a Belgian Mathematical Engineer, created a very similar design to Morse. We know it now as the Modern Round Brillant Cut (RBC) Diamond. Manufacturers even modified its facet arrangement to fit other shapes, such as the Marquise, Pear, Cushion, and Oval. The MODERN ROUND BRILLIANT CUT remains the Master of the Marketplace today.
"Old Euro Cut" Natural Diamond
The Old Euro Cut is an early Round Brilliant Cut Diamond. "Euro" is simply short for European. As Europeans adopted the Old Mine Cut schematics to fit their needs, this cut led the way to today's Modern Round Brilliant Cut Diamond.
Just as the "Old Miner," this cut also maintains a high crown, deeper pavilion, larger culet, and smaller table. However, these features are not as exaggerated, or prominent, as the "Old Miner"and it is round or near-round. Therefore, they appear more brilliant given the modified angles. Again, it is know as the "Old Euro."
A SYMMETRY GRADE IS NOT A CUT GRADE
If you were to look at a Princess Cut Diamond (square) face up and imagine to fold it in half. How well would its opposing faces and corners match or align with each other? This is Symmetry. Symmetry has nothing to do with Crown Angles and Proportion Percentages of a gemstone's Cut. Only an experienced Gemologist can help you determine Brilliance by identifing Cut Angles and Percentages. Every Fancy Cut Diamond is different from one another. So different in fact, that each one has its own set of variables. Thus, Shape Appeal was born. Diamond Cutters were given cutting tolerances for each shape. These tolerances corresponded with Preferred Cut Ratios. Cut Ratio is the gemstone Length ÷ Width. This is the best way to find out what shape appeals to you most. Someone may prefer a Square Radiant Cut (7mm x 7mm; cut ratio 1:1), or they may prefer a Rectangular Radiant Cut (8mm x 6mm; 1.3:1). Preferred Cut Ratios can be seen above with each Shape.
Fancy Shaped Diamonds
COLOR & CLARITY
Color grading is no different for Fancy Shaped Diamonds than it is for Round Diamonds. They are both graded the same way; under the same circumstances and lighting. Except, Color will show a bit more in a Step Cut Diamond due to its faceting style. It is reccommended to go with a near colorless diamond or better.
Clarity grading is also the same for Fancy Cuts as it is for Round Brilliant Cuts. All diamonds are analyzed using the five GIA Clarity Grading Factors. However, there is an aspect that lies with the Step Cut Diamond you have to consider here as well. The Cut is so transparently full of light, that even the slightest inclusion will break apart the light. Because of the brilliance factor, it is much more noticeable than it would be in other cuts. Choosing a GIA Clarity Grade of VS2 or higher when selecting a Step Cut is best.
Examine Color & Clarity further.
